The Old Salt Road

The Nakasendo is one of the 5 ancient roads leading to Tokyo, or Edo as it was then known.
There is the famous Tokaido road linking Kyoto and Edo, immortalised by Hiroshige's prints.
However the Nakasendo was the central mountain route  and it remains a very beautiful and interesting part of the world to explore.

This was also known as the 'Salt Road' as much of this commodity was transported along it. Indeed one of the major towns along it, today a small city, is called Shiojiri literally "Salty Bottom".




Tsumagojuku is a perfectly preserved town along the Nakasendo. Whereas many
historical towns are now polluted by more modern buildings, vending machines and ugly signs, Tsumagojuku is perfectly preserved and lovingly restored.
There are no cars allowed during the day and there is a 10 o'clock curfew at night, so it is incredibly peaceful.

We stayed in an ancient in and thanks to a friend's call to the owner were given the best room in the house,

The town is nestled in deep mountains by a
thundering river and as we were there in May the full  green riot of Spring was everywhere to be seen.

Interestingly there are two well restored buildings that were  Honjon and Wakihonjin's places. A honjin was the house of a family that hosted the lords and other great dignitaries as they proceded to and from Edo. As the lords travelled with an enormous retinue the whole village prospered from their visits. Providing accommodation for them was very profitable for the Honjin and Wakihonjin, the Wakihonjin being the vice, or second level Honjin.