Korea

We went to Korea for four days and it was marellous. Very difffernet from Japan, of course, but somehow it was still surprising just how different. Seoul is a massive and vibrant city, cracking along at a furious pace. About a quarter of the population live there.

The manners are different, people wear brighter clothes. they walk differntly, they use mobile phones on trains. I was expecting this but it is always fascinating to see how two countries, close geographically can have such different cultures.

Obviously there are big architectural differences as well and thankfully there are many old preserved districts and buildings. There are also many little design and art studios and the work they generate is very modern and very edgy. The overseas study of the younger people obviously contributes to the feel of new edginess of design and feeling of newness to many things.

The young people are noisier than their Japaense cousins and the men seem bigger, stronger and more manly. Probably as a result of compulsory military service and eating lots of meat.

In Japan, in the media, there is much talk of "Herbivorous" Japanese men. In other words, many of the younger Japanese males are thought to be timid, not meat eating, somewhat effeminate and lacking in a healthy interest in the opposite sex, or any sex for that matter.  At least so says the Japaense media.



The food is of course very spicy and Korea doesn't seem to be a place for vegetarians. Although of course vegetable dishes are available, grilled meat and various sorts of fish seem to rule.

 In this case the cure seems worse than the malady in question.

 Nearly all the restaurants serve only Korean food, there is not the range of French and Italian restaurants you get here in Japan. Also the language turned out to be quite a problem. Whereas many of the younger people study overseas and can therefor speak some English, most of the older people only speak Korean. Restaurant menus are usually only in Korean, necessitating much miming and pointing at food on other tables.

The markets in Korea are fabululous. Seoul has a massive market area where vast quantities of everything are for sale. This includes a wonderful food market where it is great fun to go for breakfast. You eat many good things in a crowded and noisy atmosphere and drink Makkoli, a raw sort of cloudy, semi-sweet rice wine. Surprisingly invigourating at breakfast time.

There are covered markets, clothes markets, shoe markets, open markets, fish markets and so on.

We visited the fish markets in both Seoul and Busan. Just wonderful. The market in Seoul in open every day 24 hours a day and is huge.

As with Japan, you wonder if there are enough fish in sea to provide for the quantities sold in these markets. Of course ,sadly, there increasingly isn't.

There are many little restaurants that are happy to cook the fish you have bought in the market.

Here, fresh sea urchins we had for lunch.

 Seoul Fish Market

Small abalone and all sorts of clams are very popular and available in prodigeous quantities.

And a crab for dinner

Taking the train from Seoul to Busan you travel diagonally across the breadth of the country from North West to South East. The countryside looks very different from Japan. Lots of small green hills with big farms on the flats in between. Also the farmers seem less likely to be living on their farms. Even in the smallest settlements most people seemed to live in appartments.




From Seoul to Busan the scenery is pretty much the same, so I may be commiting an injustice, but there does not seem to be the diversity of geography and scenery you get in Japan.
























So if you get a chance, go to Korea. Its vibrant and fun and not expensive. There are also so many  little bars and drinking shops its overwhelming.

You could even stay here, we didn't. We like rooms with windows.