Mashiko: famous pottery. ancient temple.

On a sunny Sunday we went to the town of Mashiko, about  one and a half hour's drive from home. Situated in Tochigi prefecture it is the most famous pottery area that happens to be close to Tokyo. The  others, Bizen etc, are a long way away.

The town has an entire "pottery street" with dozens of shops selling the local wares. Unlike some of the other famous pottery towns, Mashiko's fame came quite late in the piece.








Before the war a Shoji Hamada moved there and started making pottery that later became famous around the world. In fact he became a "living treasure" and his works are credited with introducing a whole new generation of art enthusiasts to the joys of Japanese pottery. My father amongst them by the way.

 The pottery street has so many shops, plus a pottery flea market, that it can be a little overwhelming. But luckily we found, or I should say Tomono found, a real and original establishment. this family have been making pottery here since before the place became famous. They have a marvellous old vertical kiln, much like you see in the oldest places in Kyushu, and the current son is a masterful potter , just like his ancestors.

Wood stacked ready for use in the kiln. Each bundle exactly the same size so when they add it to the fire they know how much extra heat they are adding.

The family's kiln,  fired two times a year. This style of kiln has been used for thousands of years.

Mashiko pottery is not fine or delicate, it is rough and every day and this is what makes it so wonderful. It was never a place for fine procelain or intricate plates for the wealthy to dine from. It was functional and honest.

After a raid on the local shops we went for a drive and found a wonderful spot. Up behind the town on a mountain, after a long and winding drive through the forest you arrive a fabulous temple perched on top and..... no-one there. Everyone goes to the pottery shops, bus loads of them, but not up the mountain to this hidden treasure. It is extremely ancient, first built about 1,500 years ago.

 Exrtemely old wooden statues.

In the spring sunshine and riotous green growth it was so peaceful and beautiful beyond belief.


Old prayers and sayings pasted on the ceilings.

 Behind the temple, hidden in the forest.

The temple belongs to the sect of the travelling mountain monks. Here's one  with his backback

 And there it is. You can walk right inside the very inner sanctum, something not always possible .

Some of the cedars around the temple are 1,000 years old.

But its not all sweetness and light. In one of the side temples there was our old friend the judge, with his charming helpers.

They are there at the end of your journey to check you've been a good boy or girl. Its all written on the chap on the left's scroll. Good person?.... Well welcome aboard!  Strayed from the narrow path?....well you're headed somewhere else.

Those of you who are members of the some of the other cults around will of course recognise the principle. Indeed our friend here is of course St Peter in fancy dress.