Kumano is in the hills close to Hiroshima and is an astonishing place. For countless centuries it has been the home of fine brush making in Japan. To this day some 80% of all the calligraphy brushes made in Japan come from here. It is a calligraphers dream.The whole village is dedicated to brush making and there are some truly fine shops with an amazing array of writing equipment for sale.
As these are hand made by master craftsmen the prices can be a bit eye-watering. You pick up a quite small brush and check the price and have to read it twice, $700-$1,000 is not unusual. There are of course cheaper ones available as well but a good calligraphy brush is going to set you back at least $200.
The really wonderful thing about the place though is the museum. Very big and very new it sits on a hill top above the town and is dedicated to all things calligraphic. It would be worth a trip to Hiroshuima just to visit this museum.It has an incredible amount of information on display about the history of calligraphy and indeed the Japanese writing sytsem in general as well as permanent and special exhibitions of the moist wonderful calligraphies, books etc. Many going back to ancinet times. If you are interested in languge, books and writing then this is the place for you.
The brushes are made from a wide range of materials, all sorts of furs, hairs, feathers, bamboo etc. 
The highlight of the many displays is a tatami room where a real brushmaking master happily sits making brushes from an astonishng array of materials. You can chat with him, in Japanese of course, and learn all about it .
Surely one of the most womderfull things about this country that you have dotted here and there people making such things. brushes, knives, hammers, silks, pottery lacquerware etc in tradiaitonal ways and by people who have been doing it in the same place for countless generations.
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